MILAN — Lineapelle is forging ahead in an uncertain scenario.
Between Sept. 17 and 19, the 104th edition of leather trade show Lineapelle was held at Rho Fiera Milano, welcoming 23,800 professionals — a 6 percent drop from February. Notably, 43 percent of attendees came from 112 foreign countries. However, the downturn did not affect the overall atmosphere.
“Before the opening, we feared the crisis would negatively impact the mood of the exhibition. Instead, it was the springboard to present high-level products,” said Fulvia Bacchi, Lineapelle’s chief executive officer. Expectations for a late 2024 recovery were unmet, and Bacchi anticipated continued complexity into the following year.
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“There’s talk of a possible rebound in the second half of 2025, but these are just hypotheses,” she explained. “The market is evolving with new players emerging beyond the U.S. and Europe, like Mexico and South America. Japan is also returning despite a weak currency driven by vibrant sales. Furthermore, China is heavily promoting its brands, so we must be their best suppliers, helping them enhance their products with our quality,” Bacchi added.
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Bacchi also confirmed the growing interest in leather for interior design, a trend set to rise: “For the next edition in February 2025, we will expand this area. We are also developing other ideas, but it’s too early to discuss them now,” she concluded.
The presence of websites and content creators like Leather Naturally, One for Leather, and Is it Leather? was noteworthy. These entities educate consumers on genuine leather and combat misinformation about the sustainability of alternative materials. “We want to engage especially with young people, providing accurate information about leather and showcasing the various professions within the sector. This is why we hosted projects developed by students from our partner schools,” Bacchi emphasized.
Improving product quality was a key focus of the event, particularly for the luxury segment, which must offer top-tier materials to justify high prices. Among the booths, the spotlight was on leathers with a natural appearance, often in soft colors, glossy enough to enhance the product’s peculiarities.
Alessandro Iliprandi, CEO of Bonaudo, said the industry has “improved its practices” but that “achieving zero environmental impact is impossible.”
“Considering we use food industry by-products, leather is a far more natural product than many others,” he said. His company is one of the few performing well in 2024: “The excellent results of last year and this first semester confirm the strength of our strategy focused on quality, innovation and expertise,” he said. Regarding the collection, he noted, “We revived historical items [that were] aesthetically valuable but previously abandoned due to manufacturing challenges. By redesigning the production process, we enhanced their effectiveness, highlighting the craftsmanship of the product.”
Returning to archives was also a theme for Limonta, founded in 1893, which reported a 2023 revenue of 170.8 million euros. “We looked to our history to develop materials reimagined with new yarns and treatments. They were iconic products, but they struggled to compete in the market these days,” said Massimo Sesana, accessories general manager. He also highlighted the growth of Altera, the new material launched last year where cotton or recycled nylon is tanned and processed to resemble leather.
Lineapelle is not just for tanneries, as exemplified by Altofare Group’s presence at the show. The holding company, backed by White Bridge Investments since 2021, gathered 11 top-tier companies producing accessories and finishes for luxury bags and shoes. All the companies joined a single large stand, including heel factories, chain producers, metal components or costume jewelry. Amongst them, Conti & Vannelli — the first to move into part of the 13,000-square-meter hub in Prato that focuses on metalworking for leather goods, and will eventually host three more Altofare brands, IAB, OBI and CDC.